“The makeup for the show is really simple, but detailed. The eye shadow isn’t around the whole eye, but only on the center. And the lipstick looks like red but it’s not really red. Tom mixed the color with black. It’s beautiful – the quality and everything is really good,” said supermodel Liu Wen during the backstage at Derek Lam Fall 2013.
It’s not just about the new designer’s collection during a fashion show as the makeup is another key to complete the look. The Creative Makeup Director of beauty giant Estee Lauder, Tom Pecheux created an exquisite beauty look for American fashion designer Derek Lam’s Fall 2013 Collection for the 7th consecutive season during New York Fashion Week.
Derek’s inspirational mood board plays off textures and colors of the fabrics in his collection. The inspiration behind Derek’s collection were based on the West Coast interior which is sophisticated with a touch of minimal urban hippie. Hence, the make up for the show represents something very comfortable, homey and cozy as it is very subtle yet sensual at the same time.
Tom’s focus for the beauty look is on eyes and lips and the skin is fresh and iridescent with a satin-matte texture. With the new Pure Color Instant Intense EyeShadow Trios, Tom applied cold, nude, very metallic shades in the middle of the lid, from eyebrow to lashes that appeared very flat, like a two-dimensional canvas painting. However, the beauty look catches the light on the runway and gives a very unusual effect with the saturated stain on the lips.
Tom mixed three different textures with the new Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Burnished Bronze with new Pure Color High Intensity Lip Lacquer in Electric Wine, and then added a little bit of a black, painted eye shadow using Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paints in Sinister. The technique created a very strong, powerful and intense effect for the lips.
Creative Makeup Director of Estee Lauder, Tom Pecheux, the man who created this beauty look on the models backstage before the runway show shares his inspiration behind the beauty looks he created for Derek Lam’s show.
Q: Tell us about the inspiration behind the beauty look for the show.
A: The make-up for the show is actually very subtle, very sensual, but what we were looking for was something very comfortable, very homey and cozy. That was the inspiration behind Derek’s clothes, which were based on West Coast interior. Beautiful apartments that are pretty minimal, yet very luxurious. Where you feel cozy and want to throw yourself on the sofa and have a good time with your friends and family. Derek is from San Francisco, so he’s going to his roots and taking inspiration. I’ve never been there – it’s one more city I need to go to, but people say that San Francisco is a European city because you can walk, and because of the weather and quality of life there. So Derek is bringing comfort, luxury and casualness into Fashion.
Q: How is Derek’s Fashion both luxurious and casual?
A: Derek has created a very luxurious brand, especially with the quality of the material that he works with. I love his incredible sense of quality and that he turns it into a casual look. This season, there is a dress that is loose on the body and there are coats that are not – they’re more like little capes that you wrap around yourself. It’s luxurious comfort.
Q: What is it like working with Derek Lam?
A: Oh, it’s amazing working with Derek. First of all, he’s an incredible and very talented designer. Through the years we’ve become very close friends. You know when you have that complicity, it makes everything much easier. And we understand each other. I know more about his place, his way of living, and thinking that transfers very well into his clothes. Our relationship is really fantastic. It’s like his clothes – very luxurious and casual.
Q: How would you describe the beauty look?
A: The beauty look I created for the Fall 2013 show is a sophisticated, minimal urban hippie – playing off of Derek’s inspirational mood board and the textures and colors of the fabrics in his collection.
Q: How did you create this look?
A: The look plays more with texture than color. The skin is very fresh and iridescent – a satin-matte texture – but the focus is on eyes and lips. Using new Pure Color Instant Intense EyeShadow Trios, I created a ray of light with cold, nude, very metallic shades in the middle of the lid, from eyebrow to lashes. This appears very flat, like a two-dimensional painting on a canvas, yet it catches the light on the runway and gives eyes a very unusual effect. Then the saturated stain on the lips is very strong, powerful and intense. I basically created the lip with three different textures. There is what we call a crystal lipstick, a gloss with very rich pigment and a little bit of black matte. I mixed new Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Burnished Bronze with new Pure Color High Intensity Lip Lacquer in Electric Wine, and then added a little bit of a black, painted eye shadow using Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paints in Sinister, to create a stain and nothing else.
Q: How did you apply the lip color?
A: We made the color perfect using a brush – not to give a lip line, but to perfect the lip line. And we dabbed the color on the lips using our fingers to give that strong tone.
Q: Did you apply the eye-makeup with a finer or a brush?
A: I applied with a finger. The reason is because the color is very metallic, so it’s very shimmery. When you grab eye shadow with a fluffy brush it becomes very flaky, whereas when you grab it with your finger it sticks on your finger, so it is very easy to blend.
Q: You said you wanted the look to be really soft, is that just a matter of blending?
A: Yes. This also helped to keep it very minimal, and of course the skin is going to be super impeccable, but I wanted it to feel effortless. It’s like when you walk into someone’s house, you think “should I sit or should I stand?” There is makeup where you think should I kiss or should I not. This look is beautiful and precious, but it’s not uptight. And that’s what I wanted to create with the look. I wanted to create just an effortless beautiful face.
Q: And how do you feel about this year’s look?
A: It makes me feel good because I was watching the girls backstage, I was watching the screen backstage, and I think this is Derek’s most beautiful show ever. I’m very proud and pleased to be part of it.
Wonder how to get the beauty look created by Tom? Here are the step-by-step instructions for you!
For Face
Start with Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion applied under eye area for a beautiful, luminous look. Massage your skin with Advanced Night Repair face serum, followed by your favorite Estée Lauder moisturizer. Apply Double Wear Light Makeup and blend well. Over foundation, use Illuminating Perfecting Primer at the top of cheekbones and on forehead as a highlighter. Finish with Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder on T-zone only.
Note: Cheeks were absent of color. Kept nude, without hard definition, so all the focus was on eyes and lips.
For Eyes:
Create a ray of light at the center of eyelid only. With fingertips, apply subtle layers of shadow from center of lashline up to brow. Start with a subtle wash of Pure Color EyeShadow in Black Crystals. Over it, add Pure Color EyeShadow Duo in Raisins and layer only the deeper shade (on right). Finish with Pure Color EyeShadow in Cyber Silver applied on top. Blend evenly for an earthy (bohemian) vibe.
Note: No mascara or brow definer is used for this look.
For Lips
Smooth on Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Copper Flash across entire lip. Over lipstick, use Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Wine and generously apply across entire lip to add depth and create a matte look. Using your finger, pat on Pure Color Gloss in Brazen Berry to create a lip stained effect.
What do you think of this look? Leave us a comment below.
