For Fall 2024, Balmain Creative Director Olivier Rousteing combed through Balmain’s extensive archives to build the fall designs upon the incorporation of fruits from Pierre Balmain’s many gardens into his couture offerings. To this end, Olivier returned to his own roots of childhood home in Bordeaux for inspiration, combining the bold architectural lines and precise tailoring of Pierre Balmain’s ‘New French Style’ with the graceful dignity of Bordeaux— resulting in a collection that we believe reflects the timeless style of savvy French women of all ages.
Just as always, the team began preparing for this collection by combing through Balmain’s extensive archives. There was unanimous agreement—after shining the spring runway’s spotlight on Monsieur Balmain’s beloved rose, it seemed only natural to maintain the focus on the founder’s green thumb and build the fall designs upon his unique history of incorporating the fruits from his many gardens into his couture offerings.
From the moment sketching began, there was an increasing injection of personal history into this runway. For example, instead of Monsieur Balmain’s more familiar apple, nut, and strawberry embellishments, the designs went all out with prints, embroideries, and 3D representations of bunches of grapes—the symbol of the most famous product of the hometown, Bordeaux.
The decision to tweak plans slightly and look southwest for additional inspirations felt very right. After several collections riffing on the beauty of Paris, the present home, and a series of presentations channeling the extraordinary spirit, craft, and patterns of the Africa of the birth parents, this collection returns to Bordeaux, the city that formed the designer.
Admittedly, there might be a tiny bit of bias, but it is believed that this childhood home is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. The two adjectives that the French tend to pair with Bordeaux are “classical” and “elegant”—for the provincial capital definitely sets itself apart with a singular refinement. This season combines the bold architectural lines and precise tailoring of Pierre Balmain’s ‘New French Style’ with the graceful dignity of Bordeaux—resulting in a collection that reflects the timeless style of savvy French women of all ages.
Beyond its celebrated allure, Bordeaux has a whole lot of rain, which explains why the trench is an essential component of every garde-robe bordelaise. The team played with the many possibilities of the classic piece, updating the familiar lines of some of Pierre Balmain’s most notable trenches and extending that recognizable style into a range of skirts, dresses, pants, and short jackets. Since the trench is usually associated with the outdoor market scenes witnessed daily as a kid, the designs are accessorized with an array of new spins on traditional French shopping bags, converting routine string, panier, and wicker market styles into some surprising and unexpected luxury offerings.
On those days when it doesn’t rain, Bordeaux’s enviable combo of southern sun and mild climate makes for some incredible weather. Some of the favorite memories are of late-season picnics with family and friends. Recalling those moments, the team turned to Monsieur Balmain’s beloved Vichy print and, just as he used to do, blew that pattern up to some unexpected proportions. After adding clusters of fruits to the mix and creating a coat of embroidered green viscose threads that evoke an idyllic park setting, all the ingredients needed for the ideal Balmain pique-nique were referenced.
There is one additional element always associated with Bordeaux’s grapes, cuisine, and gardens: the beautiful escargot. Several unexpected ways were found to include the snail shell’s mesmerizing spirals inside this collection, including coiled stitching, a golden metal breastplate, and a wide array of coquille-inspired buttons, jewels, and ornaments.
Throughout today’s runway, the artisans of the Balmain Atelier make very evident their mastery of traditional Parisian couture techniques, with impressive draping, perfect pleating, stunning embellishments, and skilled leatherwork. To fully appreciate their finesse, it is suggested to take the time needed to make some close inspections—for what might appear at first glance to be a pattern, print, or cross-stitch may reveal itself to be a remarkable, intricately beaded creation. In addition, the historic savoir-faire of the house is combined with innovative techniques and materials, while also turning to talented artists to create some exceptional additions, including a snail-shell golden metal breastplate and a pair of hands clasping a bouquet.
